Apparel & Design

Cultural Group Articles

Select a cultural group from the list provided by the instructor. See recommended subject headings.

Shelf Reserve             Databases             Reference Books            Books in the Stacks

 

For *Library Portions* of the Semester Long Project Only

[see your syllabus and assignment for details]

Spring 2009 Cultural Groups

The indented terms found beneath the cultural group are subject headings that work in library catalog. The reference books have a juvenile audience, but are still quite useful for getting started.

Generic keyword search: [group] and (adornment or clothing or textiles)

Note: some of the subject headings may only have one relevant title in the catalog or only one title will be relevant (this would be in a list of 10 or fewer titles). Also, some of the groups do not have anything specific about them or their adornment practices, so the adornment topic will need to be danced around "social life and customs," "civilization," and "history." After doing your search in the catalog, also look in Prospector for additional titles that use the same subject heading.

Traditional Adornment Practices of:

American Indians—Navajo —— combined with two below
American Indians—Ute ——— combined with above and below
American Eskimos ————— combined with two above

Indian art -- North America.
Navajo Indians.
Navajo Indians Social Life And Customs
Navajo textile fabrics
Indians of North America -- Clothing.
Indian textile fabrics -- North America.
Ute Indians -- Social life and customs.
Yupik Eskimos -- Material culture.
Yupik Eskimos -- Rites and ceremonies.
Costume -- Indians of North America

Greig, Charlotte. Native America. Broomall , PA : Mason Crest Publishers, 2003. E98.C8 G74 2003 REFERENCE Paterek, Josephine. Encyclopedia of American Indian Costume. Denver, CO: ABC-CLIO, 1994. E98.C8 P37 1994 REFERENCE

Amish

Clothing and dress -- Religious aspects.
Clothing and dress -- Social aspects -- United States.
Costume -- Symbolic aspects -- United States.
Mennonites Pennsylvania

Andean Indians

Indians of South America -- Andes.
Indians of South America -- Andes Region -- Costume -- Catalogs.
Indian textile fabrics -- South America -- Catalogs.
Textile fabrics -- Andes Region.

Ashanti — Ghana

Ashanti (African people)
Ashanti (African people) -- Social life and customs.
Costume -- Africa
Textile fabrics Africa

Greig, Charlotte. Africa. Broomall , PA : Mason Crest Publishers, 2003. GT1580 .G74 2003 REFERENCE

Guatemalans—indigenous

Costume -- Guatemala -- History.
Textile design -- Guatemala -- History.
Mayas -- Costume -- History.
Indian textile fabrics -- Central America.
Textile fabrics -- Guatemala.
Costume -- Guatemala.

Hawaiians—indigenous

Textile fabrics -- Islands of the Pacific.
Costume -- Hawaii -- History -- 20th century.

Hindus— Bali

Bali ( Indonesia : Province) -- Civilization.   [not necessarily about dress or clothing or adornment]

Hindus— India

India -- Civilization.
Costume -- India
Costume -- India -- History.  
Costume -- Symbolic aspects -- India.  
Costume -- India -- Psychological aspects.  
India -- Social life and customs.  
India textile fabrics
India textile fabrics history
Rabaris.

Kilgallon, Conor. India and Sri Lanka. Broomall , PA : Mason Crest Publishers, 2003. GT1460 .K55 2003 REFERENCE

Hmong—S.E. Asia [China]

Decorative arts, Hmong.
Decorative arts, Hmong -- Laos.
Hmong Asian People
Hmong Asian People Costume
Costume -- Asia
Costume -- China
Textile fabrics, Hmong
China textile fabrics

Hammond, Paula. China and Japan. Broomall , PA : Mason Crest Publishers, 2003. GT1555 .H26 2003 REFERENCE

Islam/Muslims

Clothing and dress -- Arab countries -- History.
Arabs -- Clothing.
Islam -- Customs and practices.
Costume -- Middle East

Cheshire, Gerard and Paula Hammond. The Middle East. Broomall , PA : Mason Crest Publishers, 2003. GT1380 .C54 2003 REFERENCE

Japanese—traditional

Japan -- Civilization.
Japan textile fabrics
Costume -- Asia
Costume -- Japan

Hammond, Paula. China and Japan. Broomall , PA : Mason Crest Publishers, 2003. GT1555 .H26 2003 REFERENCE

Kuna Indians [See Cuna Indians] (Panama)

Cuna Indians
Cuna Art
Cuna textile fabrics
Indian art -- Central America.

Masai— Africa

Masai African People
Masai (African people) -- Social life and customs.
Costume -- Africa
Textile fabrics Africa

Greig, Charlotte. Africa. Broomall , PA : Mason Crest Publishers, 2003. GT1580 .G74 2003 REFERENCE

Miao--China [see Hmong--S.E. Asian above]

Saamis—Laplanders [See Sami European People in SAGE]

Lapland -- Social life and customs.
Sami European People Social Life and Customs
Sami European People
Sami (European people) -- Social conditions.

Scotland —Highlanders

Costume -- Scotland
Clothing and dress -- Great Britain -- History
Scotland textile fabrics

Greig, Charlotte. The British Isles. Broomall , PA : Mason Crest Publishers, 2003. GT730 .G74 2003  REFERENCE

South Korean

Clothing and dress -- Korea -- History
Korea , South
Korea -- Social life and customs.
Silk Road -- History.
Costume -- Korea
Korea textile fabrics

Wodaabe— Africa [See Bororo African People]

Bororo (African people) -- Clothing.
Bororo African People Social Life And Customs
Textile fabrics Africa

Greig, Charlotte. Africa. Broomall , PA : Mason Crest Publishers, 2003. GT1580 .G74 2003 REFERENCE

Shelf Reserve List set up by your instructor and available at the Morgan Library Loan/Reserve Desk. Includes an extensive collection of materials designed to assist you with this assignment. Check out things from the Desk with your Student ID.

This is an annotated list of items on reserve for AM250. The two titles with an asterisk (*) are good for background reading about apparel and adornment in general, but are not recommended for your final projects. Looking through at least one of them is, however, highly recommended.

African Elegance. / Ettagale Blauer. RESERVE -- NK1080 .B53 1999 

Stonework, wood, beadwork, paint and body decoration, metalwork, weaving, leather. People wearing the items. Index. Some description and text.

Americanos: Latino Life in the United States = La vida Latina en los Estados Unidos / Edward James   RESERVE -- E184.S75 O48 1999

People doing everyday things. Quotes. Photos have captions

The Art of Being Kuna: Layers of Meaning among the Kuna of Panama / Mari Lyn Salvador, editor. (no author) RESERVE -- F1565.2.C8 S23 1997

Art, language, music, everyday living. A lot of text.

Colors of the Vanishing Tribes / Bonnie Young. New York: Abbeville Press, 1998. RESERVE -- TR681 I58 Y68 1998

Color photographs. Country where taken identified. Photographer/author sees color themes by location.

Ethnic Dress / Frances Kennett with Caroline MacDonald-Haig. RESERVE -- GT511 .K46 1995 c.2

By area of world; then regions or countries within. Lots of faces as well as clothes.

*Functions of Dress: Tool of Culture and the Individual / Penny Storm.   RESERVE -- GT511 .S86 1987

Textbook-type. Bibliography. Index. Overall analysis. Part I Intrinsic functions: adornment, utility, modesty; Part II Communicative functions: communication, roles, status, Part III Sociological functions: social class, economics, government religion, individual development, group dynamics, behaviors.

Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion / Bernhard Roetzel ; art direction, Peter Feierabend ; photography. RESERVE -- TT617 .R64 1999

Beard, hair, underwear, shirt, necktie, suit, smart casual, shoes, hat, accessories, home comfort, formal dress, knitwear, sporting life, overcoats & jackets.

The Maya Textile Tradition / photographs by Jeffrey Jay Foxx ; edited by Margot Blum Schevill.  RESERVE -- F1435.3.T48 M39 1997

Ordinary scenes with dress as well as ritual dress/occasions. Weaving in action. Chapters about various related topics, including history.

National Geographic: The Photographs / by Leah Bendavid-Val.    RESERVE -- TR790 .B46 1994

People, animals, nature. Places and date.

Photographs, Then and Now / National Geographic ; [prepared by the Book Division]. RESERVE -- TR790 .P487 1998

Worldwide from different eras. By region.

Portraits / Steve McCurry.    RESERVE -- TR680 .M398 1999

Faces from around the world. (National Geographic.) Place and year

Threads of Identity: Embroidery and Adornment of the Nomadic Rabaris / Judy Frater. RESERVE -- NK9276.A1 F73 1995

Stories of people, descriptions of clothes. Lots of pictures with descriptive captions. (India.)

(un)Fashion / by Tibor + Maira Kalman [creative directors; created and designed by M&Co ; Kevin Kwa RESERVE -- GT524 .K38 2000

In sections by theme (only text in book); rest is pictures only (identified at back of book).

*The Visible Self: Global Perspectives on Dress, Culture, and Society / Joanne B. Eicher, Sandra Lee RESERVE -- GT521 .R57 2000

Textbook. Bibliography. Index. Study, appearance, culture, art, aesthetics, types, as art.

Women in the Material World / by Faith D'Aluisio and Peter Menzel.    RESERVE -- HQ1381 .D35 1996

Around the world, women at home, work, with children and other family members. Thematic topics with photographs cover (briefly) childcare, education, friends, water, food, hair, work, laundry, marriage. Field journals. Statistics glossary.

[If you'd like the complete listing of databases or have problems logging in to any of the links below, please go to the databases page by clicking the "Databases" link on the toolbar at the top of the page. See also How to Find Journal Articles and How to Evaluate Journal Articles.]

Academic Search Premier

Multidisciplinary database with full text articles to select publications (either in PDF-includes images; or HTML format-usually no images). Not all citations include the full text of the article. Articles might be refereed academic journals or popular magazines. Also indexes images. Subject Terms: Clothing & Dress, Dress Accessories, Women’s Clothing, Men’s clothing, Clothing trade, fashion; narrow by specific country.

America History and Life

Indexes major journals, books, conference proceedings and dissertations in American History, American Studies. Some information on American art, architecture , design and costume. Useful for Native American research. Check Sage for holdings. Most dissertations before 1997 and many conference proceedings will NOT be in the library. Search terms: American history and American studies; art, architecture, design and costume.

Art Abstracts (1984-present) and Art Index Retrospective, 1929-1984.

Coverage includes over 417,000 records from over 400 leading art publications from around the world. Includes some costume and apparel research. Subject terms: Costume, Costume--Social aspects, Costume--Political aspects, Gender identity and costume, North American Indian costume. Keyword: costume and [country].

Arts & Humanities Citation Index (1975- )

Provides citations to academic journal articles in art, history, religion and related subjects. Links are available to find authors who have cited a particular article via a "Cited Reference" search. Search simultaneously with the Social Science Citation Index. Check Sage for holdings. [ISI/Web of Science]

Business Source Complete. Varies.

Subject terms: acrylic fibers; brassieres; cashmere; clothing & dress; clothing trade; coats; cotton; culture, dress accessories; dresses; evening gowns; fashion designers; fashion; fibers; fashion merchandising; knit goods; lace & lace making; lingerie; manners & customs and [country] {for social overview}; manners & customs not social overview {to weed out country social overviews}; men’s clothing; neckties; nylon; polyesters; plaid; rayon; retail trade; shirt’s men’s; silk; shorts (clothing); skirts; sleepwear; spandex; spinning; sport clothes; sport clothes industry; sweaters; synthetic; textile design; textile fabrics; textile fibers, textile industry; traditional knowledge; tweed; underwear; wedding costume; women’s clothing; wool fabrics..

Historical Abstracts

General history and culture database that indexes major journals, books, conference proceedings and dissertations covering historical studies in all periods outside the U.S. (Asia, Africa, Europe, etc.). Includes some citations to historic costume. No full text, but detailed abstracts are included. And, indexing extends all the way back to 1954. Check library catalog Sage for holdings.

PsycINFO

Indexes major publications in psychology and related fields. Excellent for psychology of dress. Partial full text. No images. Subject terms: clothing, fads and fashions. Keyword: clothing and culture.

Social Science Citation Index see Arts and Humanities Citation Index, above

Reference books are useful for background and terms for costume/dress or on individual tribes, groups or nationalities. Most of the titles on this list are on the shelves in the Reference collection on level one (first floor) of Morgan Library. Check the catalog record to be certain--titles may have been moved.

African Ethnonyms : Index to Art-Producing Peoples of Africa. GN645 .B53 1996 Reference

Countries and Their Cultures. 4 vols. GN 307 .C68 2001 Reference

Craighead’s International Business, Travel, and Relocation Guide to 90 Countries. 2 vols. HG 5549.5 .E45 D57 Information Desk

Culturegrams. GT150 .C84 Information Desk v. 1, The Americas; v. 2, Europe; v. 3, Africa; v. 4, Asia and Oceania.

[-good general information of specific ethnic groups with a paragraph or two on clothing of the specific group].

Cultures and Costumes: Symbols of Their Period. GT 730-GT 1597 (varies) Reference also E 98 .C8 G74 2003 Reference (Native Americans)

Enciclopedia de Bolivia. F 3304 .E52 2000 Reference. In Spanish. Color photographs.

Enciclopedia del Ecuador. F 3709.5 .E63 2001 Reference. In Spanish. Color photographs.

Enciclopedia del Perú. F 3409.5 .E63 2001 Reference. In Spanish. Lavish color photographs.

Encyclopedia of American Indian Costume. E98.C8 P37 1994 Reference South

[-very extensive on costume of Native Americans including regions and specific tribal groups within those regions; includes large number of illustrations].

Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. 3 vols. GT 507 .E53 2005 Reference

Encyclopedia of Cultural Anthropology. 4 vols. GN 307 .E52 1996 Reference South

Encyclopedia of Indians of the Americas. 7 vols. E 54.5 .E52 Reference.

Encyclopedia of Native American Tribes. E 76.2 .W35 2006 Reference

Encyclopedia of Social and Cultural Anthropology. GN 307 .E527 1996 Reference

Encyclopedia of World Costume. GT 507 Y37 Reference

Encyclopedia of World Cultures. GN307 .E53 1991 Reference South (Supplement 2002)

[-see Ethnonym Index (vol.10) to discern spelling variations of groups].

Ethnic Groups Worldwide: A Ready Reference Handbook. GN325 .L46 1998 Reference

Ethnic Style: History and Fashion. GT513 .G45 2001 Reference

Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages. 5 vols. GT 511 .P46 2004 Reference

For Appearances Sake: The Historical Encyclopedia of Good Looks, Beauty, and Grooming. GT499 .S49 2001 Reference

Greenwood Encyclopedia of Daily Life. 6 vols. GT 31 .G74 2004 Reference

Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cultures. 9 vols. GN 307 .J85 1999 Curriculum

Macmillan Encyclopedia of Native American Tribes. E76.2 .J63 1999 Reference

Native American Tribes. 4 vols. E 77 .G15 1998 Reference

Oxford Encyclopedia of Mesoamerican Cultures (Mexico & Central America) 3 vols. F 1218.6 .O95 2001 Reference (See: Dress and Adornment)

Peoples of Africa. 11 vols. GN645 .P33 2001 Reference South

Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion. GT513 .K813 Reference

Worldmark Encyclopedia of Cultures and Daily Life. 4 vols. GN333 .W67 1998 Reference

• Remember that a number of people in your class have to use the resources available. Please be kind and photocopy what you need.If you check a book out; try to use it immediately and then return it for others to use.
• From the Library Home Page-click on the main search box, Primo, and search for a book title or topic.
• A number of helpful books can be found in the stacks for every group.
• Use the library catalog and search by keyword.
• Try terms such as: "clothing" or "adornment" or "costume" or "apparel" or "ornament." You may truncate the terms with the asterisk. For example: costum* will find books on costume, costumes, costuming, etc.
• It may help to combine these terms with a term for your group: e.g. Navajo or Navaho (Account for variations of your group name--
  • Navajo or Navaho AND (costum* or dress* or adorn* or cloth*) =13 hits
  • Masai or Maasai
• If you have a subcultural group, you have to tell the computer that--
  • (Goth or Gothic) and subculture
• Search the library catalog by subject:
  • Clothing and Dress (49 related subjects e.g. buttons, headgear, etc.)
  • Clothing and Dress [country, country history, era, care, etc.]
  • Clothing and Dress History
  • Clothing and Dress Social Aspects
  • Clothing trade (23 related subjects e.g. footwear industry)
  • Costume Design
  • Costume Design [country, state, or region]
  • Dress Accessories (5 related subjects: fans, handbags, handkerchiefs, jewelry, and ornamental combs)
  • [Country] Encyclopedias (note: CSU does not have an encyclopedia for every country)
  • Footwear (5 related subjects: boots, shoes, etc.)
  • Men’s Clothing history
  • Textile Fabrics (41 related subjects: brocade, linen, silk, etc.)
  • Textile Fabrics [country, region, etc.]
• If you don't find anything on the clothing or adornment of the group, try finding general books on the group. Chances are there is something on their customs or style in the text. Consult the index and the table of contents.
• If the book you want is checked out, go to PROSPECTOR and order the book. This usually takes about 5 business days.

Images Sources for images:

• Articles in PDF or print that have illustrations or pictures. These could be articles that:
  • you've already located.
  • you find for this portion of the assignment.
• Images from databases that index images. (For example, the database Academic Search Premier contains a few images).
• Reference books or books from the stacks.
• **Shelf Reserve books (see link above under Part II). Retrieve items on Shelf Reserve for AM250 under course number or Dr. Eckman's name at the Morgan Library Loan/Reserve Desk with your student ID, the course number and the instructor's name. Books get checked out for a limited period. So, you might want to make copies. Photocopies are $.12 a page in the library (with a copy card).

Style Manuals

Style Guides/Style Manuals/Citation Guides (such as APA, MLA, Chicago and Turabian):

Morgan Library maintains a collection of the most recent editions near the Reference Desk. You may use these freely in the Library in creating a bibliography, footnotes, works cited page, etc. But, they may not be checked out of the Library.

Check out the Style Guides maintained by the Library for more information.